White Trash Cooking
The secret life of the South’s favorite Cook-book
Don’t open someone else’s icebox
A Confederate general and a gay man who liked cole slaw have more in common with each other than with a Yankee.
North Florida may not seem a promising site for a literary scene — for one thing, it’s awful humid — but forty years ago the Gainesville area was home to a set of trailblazing gay writers who drew on the traditions of southern literature in innovative and sometimes shocking works. At its center was the playwright Cal Yeomans, a Florida native who returned to the area in 1978 after years in Atlanta and New York. There he befriended Ernest (Ernie) Mickler and Andrew Holleran, writers who in different genres used the resources of gay and Southern culture to write hilarious, horny, and heart-rending dramas, novels, and — wait for it — cookbooks. Yeomans, born in 1938, was the senior figure — although in 1978 he had little aesthetic achievements to show for his forty years. He had spent the previous decade unsuccessfully trying to make it in the world of avant-garde theater, writing absurdist, one-dimensional shock-mongering stuff about drag queens and transsexuals in the spirit of Andy …